Thursday, August 24, 2006

Oaxaca (O - Wacca) Or Not

Well after 3 days in the hostel it was time to move on and meet up with the group I will be spending the next 8 weeks with. There are 14 of us, mostly British with some Aussies, Canadians and a Dutch girl. We deposited our belongings at a hotel and drove to Teotihaucan - home to some very impressive ruins including the pyramid of the sun and the pyramid of the moon. These pyramids are extremely steep with very large steps and in a moment of madness we very quickly ascended both of them. My legs certainly got a shock that day.Not only my legs as I managed to burn myself as I forgot to take the difference in altitude into account. Don´t ever try to carry a rucksack with sunburn!
The following day we all climbed into the coach to begin an 8 hour drive to Oaxaca. A beautiful town famed for its twin delicicies of fried grasshoppers and Mesqual (a stronger, better type of tequilla). We arrived there to find our way blocked by a jack - knifed lorry. On closer scrutiny our driver came back with the not so welcome news that the road had been blocked on purpose. In fact all roads into town had been blocked and no-one, not even locals were being allowed through. It turns out that demostrations in Oaxaca have turned violent and at the moment there are angry mobs throwing bricks etc. This is not so much to do with the election protests but with demonstrations by teachers. The teachers have not been given a pay rise in over 20 years - although promised many. And I thought we were badly paid in Britain. So the teachers demostrated peacefully and the president has had the ringleaders shot and killed. Not surprisingly this has led to more violence in the city. Britain as its faults but at least we know we won´t be killed for disagreeing with the government.
Because all roads had been blocked we were faced with a dilema. The coach had to double back for 4 hours just to reach the intersection of the motorway. We could then go back into Mexico City or head in the opposite direction towards San Christobel - our next stop after Oaxaca. The driver assurred us he was alright to drive on, even though he reckoned it would take another 13 hours. We agreed to get moving on the understanding that as soon as Billy (the driver) felt tired he would pull over and rest at the side of the road. So we set off. We had been travelling since 8 that morning and by now it was 4pm. At 11pm we stopped for dinner - scrambled eggs for me. Billy showing no signs of tiredness urged us to keep going. At 8am the following morning, we pulled up at our destination. Our group looking awful, Billy with his super human strength said he wasn´t tired yet. There are no laws regarding how many hours drivers can be on the road here. A 24 hour jouney such as Billy had just done is quite common. Needless to say we all think he is a hero and have got no idea how he did it - and did it very safely.
So we are in San Christobel for 3 days. It is a beautiful colonial town situated high in the mountains. Watching the sun rise as we climbed into the mountains was spectacular. It is mainly an indian population here with a famous arts and crafts market. The buildings are all painted bright colours - red, blue and yellow and much to my delight they have a veggie restaurant serving local food.
Speaking of food (again) I was served papaya on eggy bread for my final breakfast at the hostel. Obviously I thought of you - Paul. Though to be honest the taste has not approved - but there is alot of time for that to change. Off now to have a good explore.

Sunday, August 20, 2006

Mexico City - A city in protest


Mexico City is huge. Over 20 million people live here and at the moment practically all of them are unhappy. Mexico has just had an election and the outcome was very close within 20 votes. People demanded a recount - the (right wing) president who got in said he would only authorize a recount in the north - where his supporters are. The left wing people are deeply upset especially as the left wing canditate was vastly ahead in the polls before election. So the left wing people are protesting and of course the right wing supporters are protesting at the left wing supporters. Why am I telling you all this. I'm setting the scene because the Zocolo (the main historic square) where I am staying has become the centre of a massive demonstration. Pepole are camped outside the government palaces. A huge tent city has appeared near the park. On the hour every hour marches go past. The zocolo is the left wing capital of the country. Its very peaceful protesting but very loud. Food tents, music tents, even theatre tents have been errected. The tent city is turning into a cultural fringe festival. It has to be seen to be believed. The only downside is alot of museums and places of interest have had to shut down because the protestors are blocking access.
I have managed to get into the national art museum which was so impressive. The murals cover the entire walls. The work of Diego Rivera in particular was amazing. He is the bloke who painted the famous mural with Lenin in the centre, USA capitalism to the left and showing communism to the right as a utopia. This is his painting of the city of Mexico when it was an island in a vast lake. This is where the Aztecs lived. When the Spanish conquered here they drained the lake over the course of 200 years and as a result the city that was built on the lake bed is sinking. Not that slowly either. It has sunk 15 metres (in places) in the last 300 years. Most of the buildings here are sloped. Reminds me a bit of the flat in Goodramgate.
Got three days in the hostel here before I join up with the overlanding group. Everyone is incredibly friendly and it would be nigh on impossible not to make friends and even my total lack of Spanish has not been a hidrance (though it has only been 1 day) The locals are very friendly and chrivalous. One chap even gave up his seat on the metro for me. So far so good... this has been the best possible start to my trip.

At last ....Mexico

Well after months of waiting I am finally here in Mexico. They do say the destination is not important is the journey that counts and my journey is finally underway. Was expecting a hectic time - air travel wise but it could not have been easier. Took a grand total of 10 minutes to check into Manchester and only 15 minutes to go through the advanced secuity. The advancement being I had to take my shoes off! Flew into Madrid and had to wait for a connecting flight to Mexico City. It was two in the morning when we set off and the plane followed the night cross the atlantic. Was a total of 18 hours after watching the sunset in Madrid that I saw daylight again. I know who Icelandic people must feel. Word of caution if you are veggie don't be surprised by the food you serve you on Ibera airlines. For dinner I got a portion of warm chick peas and a side portion of cold pickled artichoke hearts. For breakfast I got mushrooms, asparagus and artichoke hearts (again). Breakfast would had been nice if it was warm but it was served cold. It was a strange taste sensation. Needless to say I was rather hungry by touchdown but all this was forgotton when I tasted the refried beans in Mexico City. Bliss