Halong Bay

Halong Bay covers a huge area and is famous for its natural beauty and thousands of limestone karsts (or giant rocks). It has recently been named one of the new 7 natural wonders of the world. Naturally it is very popular with tourists and there are over 500 boats in the bay that offer cruises and overnight stays. I decided to spend a little more and go on one of the deluxe cruise options (I did not say luxury as I do not have $700 to spend on a three day excursion!)I chose a 3 day 2 night option, one night on the boat, one night in an eco resort on CatBa Island. I was picked up in my hotel in Hanoi and driven in the most comfortable minivan (it was like a luxury coach) - I honestly did not think it was possible to be transported in comfort in Vietnam, for the 4 hour trip to Halong Bay. Here we were put aboard a small tender boat and piloted out into the bay to meet our big boat - the Dragon Cruise Deluxe. It looked rather rickety from the outside - but the inside was a different matter.

I was very lucky - the ship was not full so I was given a room to myself - normally you would have to share. Not only was the room gorgeous but the bathroom was bigger than my hotel room had been in Hanoi! This I was not expecting. There were only 11 people on the boat - it can take 24 and I was seated with a great Australian couple Alvena and Tanya, everybody else kept themselves to themselves. The first order of the day was food, we were bought out giant platters of rice, noodles, greens, fish, prawns, squid, salad as well as a couple of meat dishes. I was also bought out an omelet to compensate for the meat dishes I could not eat. As we were eating the boat was moving to its first destination - the amazing cave. With very full stomachs we stumbled down the gangplank, not knowing exactly what to expect. Our guide Dung (pronounced Zun)pointed to some steps and said "up there". He then disappeared. As we arrived another 5 giant boats started off loading people so we started climbing quickly to try and escape the masses.

The cave was spectacular - full of stalactites and stalagmites. It was huge too and a walk way had been built around the cave to accommodate the thousands of visitors. It took a good half an hour to walk through the cave with plenty of ooooooh's and arhhhh's being heard. As soon as we were out of the cave the small tender boat immediately took us to our next stop. This karst had a tiny beach attached to it and we were given 45 minutes to either swim or climb to the top of the karst to see the view. It was drizzling by now and I didn't fancy sun bathing in the rain, so up to the top I went - but very slowly. It was incredibly steep and I was dripping in sweat. Even Tanya who is a fitness instructor and apparently never sweats - was sweating - much to the delight of her girlfriend Alvo. The view however was worth it - Halong Bay is stunning. After climbing down the 425 steps there was just enough time for a quick dip. The water was very pleasantly warm. On the photo below you can see what looks like a tiny pagoda on of the karst - that was the lookout point. There was no time to dry off and Dung now took us to our next activity. Here was me thinking I had signed up for a leisurely cruise - no. The activity was kayaking. They were double kayaks and I was teamed up with a young English lad named Mark. We went through a rock cave into a secluded inlet and away from all the boats. Despite our kayak not wanting to turn left without a struggle we had a great time. We got right up next to the rock face in hopes of seeing some of the wondrous wildlife that lives in the bay - but all we managed to see was a bird that looked remarkably like a gull. After exiting the kayaks, Dung gave us all half an hour free time in which we could have a shower! Our Kayak had been very full of water so I was sodden by this point and in need of warm water and dry clothes.

By now Dung had set up a demostration table and he showed us all how to make fresh spring rolls. More importantly, he demonstrated how to make the all important dipping sauce - I learnt the key element is equal quantities of sugar to fish sauce. The rolls were delicious, and then he invited everyone to have a go. Only myself, Tanya and Alvo were up for it, the rest simply sat in silence! Bizarrely i had to put on surgical gloves before I was allowed to wrap my own spring roll - this made the wrapping very tricky! Dung then made us elaborate flowers carved out of carrots and a swan tomato. He is a multi talented guy! After gorging on spring rolls we had to then sit down for tea, where they brought out even more food. I literally ate till I felt I was bursting - and it still looked as if we hadn't put a dint in the food on the table. After dinner, Dung then invited us all to eat with the crew and try some of their food. they were all eating in the little tender boat attached on our port side. Guess which 3 took him up on the offer. Only Tanya however ate. They were eating duck eggs with the embryos half grown inside. I had seen these before in China, were they are considered a delicacy. Apparently Tanya had tried them in the Phillopines so she was willing to eat them again. The crew were very impressed with her. They shared some of their lethal rice wine with us too.

The following morning we were taken to an oyster farm where they implant the oysters with starter pearls in order to cultivate the pearls. We actually saw the chaps doing this - which was fascinating. We had to check out of our boat and transfer to another dining boat for a relaxing cruise along the bay towards CatBa Island. We stopped off for a swim but as I had no towel with me I opted out. After giving us more food - this time deep fried seafood spring rolls, as a snack, we then had to sit down for lunch at half 11. I couldn't eat much, I was still full from breakfast. We arrived at a large rock and Dung announced we were here. This couldn't be CatBa Island surely - it was a vertical rock! Apparently the harbour and main town were on the opposite and flatter side. Here we were given a bicycle and told we had a nice 5km ride to where my bungalow and bed for the night was. (The others had opted for a hotel in town) The ride started out pleasant. Spectacular scenery and baby goats. Then there was a roadworks sign. There were no roadworks because the road was missing - in its place was a quarry - complete with jcb. It was mud and stones with ruts in the mud shin deep.

Obviously everyone had dismounted by this stage and was pushing the bikes through the mud. The bikes got slower and slower. Then Alvo cried "my flipflop is stuck." She was well and truly immobile and couldn't move. Trouble was I was behind here and couldn't pass and as I waited I too started sinking. Now I was stuck too. I could not lift my feet up. Dung was in hysterical laughter - he was on a motorbike, carrying the bags, and well and truly safe. In the end I had to dig my flipflops off and walk the rest of the quarry barefoot. By now there was that much mud on the bikes the wheels had clogged up with the mud between the wheels and the wheeltrims.Finally after alot of effort, everyone exited the quarry and then preceded to try and clear the wheels using big sticks. i wished I could have got a photo but my camera was away for safety. the road then split into two. A big sign said Danger. steep slope. Go the other way shouted Dung, so we did. But the road soon disappeared under rather alot of water. Oh its flooded cried Dung helpfully, but it did gives us all a chance to wash ourselves and the bikes in the flooded road. So we doubled back to take the Danger, steep slope raod and pushed the bikes to the top of the slope. From this point the bike ride really started - and it was very scenic riding through the jungle.

My bungalow was in a tiny village nestled at the bottom of these mountains. It was here I said goodbye to the others (they were going to the hotel) and Dung told me I had to be back at the dock at 9am tomorrow. i spent a great afternoon cycling around and waking through the jungle. I didn't attempt the 2 hour climb to the summit of the mountain as the path was a mud path only and I only had the not very mud friendly flipflops with me. Whilst walking in the jungle I came across an old abandoned monastery which was so atmospheric and wonderful. I was served a simple but tasty supper with the correct sized portions and after darkness fell i spent the evening reading. It was so relaxing - i made the right choice staying here over a soul-less hotel room. I awoke to a terrific thunderstorm with the rain still pelting down. This was going to make the cycle back even more adventurous! I donned my rain coat and set off. Surprisingly I made it through the quarry quite easily - I had found a much better route through the mud. But the rest of the path to the dock was completely underwater. I made it through and completely unscathed too, I even had 10 minutes to spare. The rain didn't ease all morning making our final cruise around the bay a little disappointing. Our boat had picked up another 12 people from somewhere, so now it was full. I'm so glad it hadn't been like that the full day i was on the boat. It would be great to see Halong Bay in the dry season but I don't think I would be able to cope with the crowds

After yet another enormous lunch at half 11 again we were taken ashore to where the same luxury minivan was waiting to take us all back to Hanoi. I arrived very tired back in Hanoi where I did not eat again for a good 24 hours!