Leaving Colombia

Our final city in Colombia was Popayan. It is known as the white city because most of its colonial architecture is white – apparently because the lime wash that covers the buildings was thought to stop a burrowing larva they used to have which caused peoples feet to rot! Popayan is also known for its daily processions during Semana Santa. Every night images of the life of Jesus were paraded through the streets, making a shape of a cross until they came to rest at one of the churches. Different stories and displays are shown each night. There are also marching bands and members of the forces and church dignitaries that make up the processions. They are parades through town during the day too – these are composed of scouts, police, marching bands and various organisations such as mountain rescue and the red cross.


Popayan is a small city and it is still being rebuilt after an earthquake in 1983. The earthquake happened on 31st March which was Maundy Thursday (day before Good Friday) around 8 in the morning killing many people in church as the central dome collapsed on top of them! A visit by the then Pope, John Paul II is commemorated in a stained glass window. After spending a couple of days here and witnessing a splendid sunset, it was time to move on.


We had a couple of long drive days, driving through the mountains before we would get to the border with Ecuador. The drives did not disappoint as the scenery, as ever, left you spell bound. We were on steep mountain roads though, and one of our planned camping spots had to be abandoned as Bob simply couldn’t get up the steep, narrow, winding road. An old farmer let us camp on the edge of his property instead.

Our final morning in Colombia was Good Friday and as we drove towards the border, the roads were packed with people walking along the side. At first we thought they were Venezuelan refugees as unfortunately we have passed many hundreds of them walking the roads south as our trip progressed. But there were too many, and without luggage, and many of them looked exhausted and were walking with sticks. Then loads of cyclists passed us: again with no luggage. As we stopped at a famous viewpoint, all became clear. In the far distance we could see an amazing looking church built in a deep canyon. These were not refugees, these were pilgrims going towards the church.

As we got closer we could see the hundreds of people attending the Good Friday service. The truck pulled into the designated car park and we began a long walk to get closer to this spectacular building. Las Lajas Sanctuary was built inside the canyon of the Guaitara river. The church was built between 1916 and 1949 and it is a truly remarkable piece of architecture. It is absolutely stunning. Walking down the hill towards the church, the paths were full of people selling religious artefacts, candles, icons. Holy water was being given out to anybody who made the pilgrimage. There were food stalls and drink sellers. We arrived as the morning service was dispersing, so we could go inside the Sanctuary if we wished. It was a breath-taking sight. What a way to end our time in Colombia!